Category: Gardening

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Autumn “Power” Perennials

Asters, Rudbeckia and Sedum create a long-lasting autumn flower show!

Chrysanthemums are undoubtedly the flowers most people think of when Labor Day weekend rolls around.  They come in a variety of colors and sizes and you can purchase early, mid and late season bloomers to keep the show going for weeks.  Left in their pots they are easily moved around to add late season color where needed; and when combined with pumpkins, cornstalks and gourds, they make splendid fall arrangements for our front entryways.  Although I love chrysanthemums, they have two major drawbacks – they need to be watered religiously to keep them from drooping and, although called “hardy,” they are not reliably perennial here in New England.  So what autumn bloomers meet my criteria for “power” perennials or plants that are drought tolerant, care-free, and perform over a long period of time?

At the top of my list is Sedum, “Autumn Joy,” one of those rare perennial plants that looks beautiful spring, summer and fall.  Because sedums are succulents – plants whose leaves hold water – they require no special treatment other than a sunny site in your garden.  What makes “Autumn Joy” so remarkable is its chameleon personality during the growing season.  It starts out in early spring with rosettes of leaves clustered close to the ground.  Slowly, over the spring and summer, the broccoli-like flower stalks become the focus, changing color from the palest green to soft pink to a deep russet by late fall.  At 12 to 24 inches tall, “Autumn Joy” is the perfect middle-of-the-border plant.

Sedum in summer
Sedum “Autumn Joy” in my late August garden (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Taking up the back of the border are the tall asters which can easily reach three feet tall.  I have two New England asters that have staggered bloom times – one a deep purple that blooms in September and the other a softer purple-pink that blooms into October.  Aster frikartii “Monch” is one of the earliest to bloom in a pleasing periwinkle blue that blends well with its neighbors.  By adding different varieties of asters, you can extend the flowering season until frost.  Taller asters look amazing planted behind sedum which incidentally helps to keep the long stems from falling over – no staking needed!  Though they can be susceptible to downy mildew, I haven’t found that to be a problem, instead finding them quite vigorous and trouble-free.  They can even take a bit of shade but will bloom more abundantly in the sunny border.

Close-up of Aster
Aster frikartii “Monch” (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

The classic Black-Eyed Susan known as “Goldsturm” rounds out my trio of autumn “power” perennials.  Blooming starts here in July and continues through September if plants are deadheaded.  The golden yellow blooms light up the garden like nothing else and last over such a long period of time that they bridge the summer garden into fall.  They are stunning planted en masse and combine well with other late summer and fall bloomers.  “Goldsturm” prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.

rudbeckia, aster and sedum
Aster “Monch,” Rudbeckia “Goldsturm” and Sedum “Autumn Joy” (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

There are many varieties of these plants available, just find ones that will grow in your hardiness zone and light conditions since we all lose some garden sunlight in the fall.   Remember also to group your autumn plants together for best effect and a dazzling grand finale!

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Embracing Changes in Garden Light

Life-giving sunlight changes over time and affects how our gardens grow.

If there’s one thing we can count on in life, it’s change.  We live in a constantly changing world of seasons – spring, summer, autumn, winter – and each season has its own light.

As September approaches, the available sunlight in my foundation garden dramatically diminishes.  The once partially shaded garden on one side now enjoys nearly full shade, while the sunny side of the garden receives a fraction of the sunlight that radiated down in May, June and July.  The vegetable garden, sited for maximum sun exposure, manages to keep producing vegetables into fall.

In the spring, there’s an abundance of light everywhere as the days grow longer.  Early bulbs quickly bloom and then fade, making way for spring perennials such as hardy geranium, Lamb’s Ears, allium, Lady’s Mantle and peonies.   Later, sun-loving daylilies, “Moonbeam” coreopsis, “Rozanne” geranium and coneflowers take over the show, happily blooming through the long days of summer.

Early Morning Sun in June (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)
Early Morning Sunlight in June (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Of all the gardening seasons, it’s the fall that gives us the most challenges in terms of light.  When planting fall blooming perennials it’s important to make sure that any sun lovers go into your sunniest spots.  Otherwise you’ll be left with plants that live but don’t thrive, and after doing all the hard work of planting, you want the most blooms for your efforts.  On the other hand, if you’re planting spring or summer perennials in the fall, you’ll have a lot more leeway as to where to place them, knowing that the spring and summer months provide the most abundant sunlight over a wider area.

Trees also change the light that reaches our gardens. A partially sunny area five years ago becomes more shaded over time as the trees in our yards grow ever larger, blocking valuable sunlight.  An addition to the house or a new outbuilding can also affect the light in nearby gardens.  When the light changes around our gardens, we have to change our gardens to accommodate the new growing conditions; otherwise, we are left with gardens that survive but don’t thrive!

The small garden below is a work in progress as the plants are still filling in.  Many years ago I had sun-loving roses planted here, but over time a large evergreen to the left has almost completely shaded the area.  Now, with only morning sun, this space is perfect for the ferns, hostas, brunnera and ajuga that appreciate the shady site.

Shade Garden in August (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)
Shade Garden in August (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Taking yearly photos of your garden is a great way to see how light changes over time. By planning ahead, and growing plants in places that have the best light conditions for them, we can make the difference between a garden that just hums along and one that sings out loud!

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Welcomed Weeding

How much do I love weeding?  Let me count the ways!

For starters, weeding is good exercise.  When I’m out in the yard, bending, stooping and pulling at unbidden greenery, I end up getting a pretty good workout.  And then there’s all that walking to and fro, covering each area of the yard as I move.  The thick layer of mulch that’s applied in the spring keeps most weeds under control but there are always stragglers popping up, especially at the garden’s edge where there’s plenty of light for germination.

There’s a certain satisfaction in weeding, that job-well-done kind of feeling.  While working I take heart in knowing that I’m rescuing my beloved perennials from a pack of bullies.  As all gardeners come to know, weeds tend to be thugs.  They have no respect for their neighbors, usurping valuable moisture and crowding everybody around them.  If left to go to seed, they will return again and again, so it’s always best to pick them young if you can.

Another side benefit of weeding is that we get a close-up look at how our gardens are doing.  Since you’re already near to the ground you can easily spot any insect or critter damage.  You can see which plants are thriving and which may need to be replaced.  It’s an opportunity to assess which plants needs dividing or where additional plants could be added to fill in gaps.

Weeding is also meditative work but I find this to be true of gardening in general.  When I’m outside working in my garden, I lose myself completely in the act.  I forget my troubles and focus only on the here and now, immersed in my precious chunk of real estate and constantly tweaking the garden design in my mind.

When we look upon weeding as a chance to be closer to the natural comings and goings around us, it becomes a gift rather than a chore, and who doesn’t love to feel rewarded with a well cared-for garden after a satisfying day’s work outdoors!

bloom blooming blossom blur
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Putting Food By

It’s now mid-August, a time in the vegetable garden when everything is really BIG and I have to step carefully between towering tomato plants, giant zucchini and a teepee covered with dangling pole beans.  Grandpa Ott morning glories climb every available structure with blooms of deep purple velvet.  Yellow marigolds add a touch of sunshine while sprawling “Milk Maid” nasturtiums soften the garden edges.  Every day there are more vegetables to pick, the bounty coming in faster and faster.

In a couple of weeks I’ll be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of fresh produce pouring into my kitchen, but right now I’m savoring every delicious bite!  It’s a bittersweet time when all our gardening labors come to fruition just as autumn lies in wait to end it all too soon.  However, in spite of our short growing season, we can carry some of our harvest into the coming months and enjoy our homegrown veggies and fruits all winter.

Garden produce can be pickled, frozen, dried or canned.  There’s nothing like opening a jar of homegrown tomatoes in January and experiencing the flavor of summer all over again.  Small cherry tomatoes dry well and the “chips” can be added to winter stews and soups.  The drying process actually concentrates the sweet flavor!  Fruits and berries can also be preserved this way, or how about homemade jam?  Peas, corn and green beans can be easily blanched and frozen.  Many vegetables such as carrots, beets, potatoes and winter squash can be simply stored in a consistently cold room.  Not too long ago most homes had a “root cellar” just for this purpose.

Putting food by, or preserving it for the future, is something that we should teach every school age child.  Once a part of everyday life, our ancestors had to insure there was food put away for the lean times or perish.  Today we’ve become so dependent on our huge grocery stores that we’ve lost touch with how food should be grown, prepared and stored.  If you already garden, food preservation is simply the next step.  By taking the time to do so we extend our gardening season well into the winter months AND get to enjoy our own produce that was picked at the peak of perfection and taste!

Before you run down to the local hardware store and purchase a box of Ball canning jars, get a good handbook on the subject to make sure you’re preserving food safely and correctly.  I’ve included a few links below to help get you started and encourage you to try the art of putting food by!

blur focus jam jars
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Watering Wisely

There’s no denying that this has been one hot summer not only in the United States but in Europe as well.  Record high temperatures, when the weather men put a “heat advisory” in effect, can be dangerous to our health.  We are advised to seek shade, air-conditioned rooms and increase fluids.  Even those of us in good shape are told to avoid vigorous outdoor exertion.  Our pets also need extra attention during hot spells.  We’ve all heard the horror stories of pets (and children!) being left in closed cars and dying from exposure.  Since high temperatures can adversely affect us and our environment, they need to be taken seriously.

Severe heat, like intense cold, can drive us inside for the duration.  But unlike cold snaps in the winter months, intense heat has a more devastating effect on our outdoor environment.  Weeks of high temperatures combined with lack of rainfall, a typical summertime scenario for many of us, take their toll on our reservoirs.  Small ponds quickly dry up, leaving fish stranded.  As we drive through neighboring towns we see the familiar signs banning outdoor watering and sprinkler use.  In particularly dry years, the leaves on the trees and shrubs actually droop, looking exhausted after their ordeal!

Our town has private well water and so we are immune to the signage warning us away from summer water use, but even though we can water, I prefer not to.  For one thing watering during a heat wave is kind of like running through a sprinkler – the moisture only lasts for that very short period of time and the heat evaporates it almost immediately.  It’s counterproductive since the much-needed moisture never really gets to where it’s needed most, the plant’s roots, and shallow watering leads to shallow roots which can compromise a plant’s health.  Also, when all we do is wet the leaves and soil surface, we leave our plants open to disease-spreading fungi.

Many experts say that to maintain a healthy garden we should water deeply, about an inch of water, at least once a week.  When you have a large garden and summer water restrictions in force, this can be impractical.  Soaker hoses are a great alternative to sprinklers because the water goes directly to the plant roots but, again, watering restrictions and drought conditions may limit the time you can use them.  Just as our climate is changing, so our watering practices must change.  We have to learn to water wisely.

So, how do we care for our gardens in the hot and often dry conditions of high summer? Take a good look at your garden on a very hot day.  You’ll notice some plants drooping under the intensity of the heat while others seem to just shrug it off.  As time goes by, you’ll want to plant more of the “shruggers” or those plants which can take the heat and still thrive.  Additionally, don’t bother planting a garden without mulching it since mulch is the best water saver of all.  For more on the benefits of mulching, see my previous blog, An Ode to Mulch.

Because hot summers are spreading far and wide and water is now such a precious commodity, xeriscaping has become popular in recent years.  According to Wikipedia, “Xeriscaping is landscaping and gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental water from irrigation.”  In other words, plant your garden with heat and drought shruggers!  I talk about some of these plants in my blog, Summer Power Perennials.  Look for plants that will grow in your hardiness zone but I’ll also list a few that you may already be familiar with and may already have in your garden.

Herbs such as lavender, oregano, thyme, rosemary and sage tolerate tough conditions with ease.  Prairie wildflowers such as coreopsis, rudbeckia and yarrow make excellent choices as do perennial grasses.  Daylilies, once established, are remarkably drought tolerant.  In the shade garden, hostas, ajuga, lamium and many ferns continue to look cool and serene even on the hottest and driest of summer days.

By gardening with heat and drought tolerant plants, we can create easy care gardens that will not only look fabulous all summer long but will help us conserve precious water as well.

purple bee insect violet
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Killing Ticks with Diatomaceous Earth

We have to face the fact that we cannot stop the deer, mice, chipmunks, squirrels, and raccoons from bringing disease-carrying ticks into our suburban yards. We can only work to kill the ticks that are already here and try to do so with safety in mind for all living things.

animals cute deer fawn
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What is Diatomaceous Earth and how does it work:

According to the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) website, “diatomaceous earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Their skeletons are made of a natural substance called silica. Over a long period of time, diatoms accumulated in the sediment of rivers, streams, lakes, and oceans. Today, silica deposits are mined from these areas.”

“Diatomaceous earth is not poisonous; it does not have to be eaten in order to be effective. Diatomaceous earth causes insects to dry out and die by absorbing the oils and fats from the cuticle of the insect’s exoskeleton. Its sharp edges are abrasive, speeding up the process.”

How we started using Diatomaceous Earth:  

About four years ago my husband sent out an email to friends asking if anyone had suggestions for getting rid of ticks in the yard.  One person suggested trying diatomaceous earth (DE) since it had been used successfully in kennels and the “food grade” type was considered safe and non-toxic.  This was good news for us since we drank water from a well and were against using chemicals.  We immediately did an online search and purchased a 10 lb. bag of what looked like white talcum powder.

At that time we could not go out into our yard without finding deer ticks crawling on us.  Both my husband and myself had been bitten many times and I had already been diagnosed with Lyme disease.  Although we took every precaution such as wearing light-colored clothing, tucking our pants into socks, using Deet repellents and religiously checking our clothing and bodies after being outdoors, it still wasn’t enough – the ticks were winning every battle!

It was late spring, prime deer tick season in our area of northeastern Massachusetts.  Before using the DE outside, my husband decided to try an experiment.  Using the “white sheet test,” he dragged a sheet over the grass in our yard to see how many ticks would cling to it, thus getting a tick count.  There were 22 ticks in a three hundred square foot area!  In addition, he took some of those ticks and placed them into a small container with the diatomaceous earth overnight.  In the morning they were lying on their backs with legs up, completely dried out and looking very dead.  This was all the encouragement we needed to put the diatomaceous earth to the back yard test!

After checking online for a recipe of sorts, my husband mixed a ratio of about 1 1/2 cups of the DE to one gallon of water in a large watering can.  This was then “sprinkled” over the areas in our yard where ticks congregated.  It left a fine white powder on the grass, plants and rock walls that surrounded our lawn.  After a rain, the powder disappeared but we hoped it would not lose its effectiveness.  It turned out we were not to be disappointed.  Two weeks later a second “white sheet test” in the same area came back with no ticks attached.  Although we were still waging war, we had won our first battle!

The Continuing Saga:

Over the course of the last four years, we’ve applied diatomaceous earth to our yard twice a year, in the spring and fall.  We’ve since upgraded to using a sprayer which makes the application faster and easier, but a watering can is fine for small areas. Each spring has brought fewer tick sightings until this spring when, amazingly, we found no ticks at all!  Is it the DE or just environmental changes that are affecting the tick population?  We can’t say for sure.  All we know is that this is the first year in many that we haven’t had to deal with deer ticks and we are very pleased with the results!

What you need to know about using Diatomaceous Earth:

The DiatomaceousEarth.com website suggests purchasing food-grade DE.  They state, “Generally, this is the best grade to use. For almost all the uses described in our articles, we recommend using food grade. It’s a multipurpose product that can be used in your home, yard or garden.”  They also recommend wearing a dust mask when using the product to avoid inhaling the fine powder and wearing gloves to protect the skin from the drying effects of DE.  Visit their website for more information.

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You can purchase 2 lb. and 10 lb. bags of food grade Diatomaceous Earth here:

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Summer “Power” Perennials

I’ve been gardening most of my adult life and have some favorite plant “vignettes.”  One of my most beloved plantings for high summer includes perovskia (Russian sage), purple coneflower (Magnus) and white daisy (Becky).  I call them “power” perennials for good reason.  All three are easy to grow and take up a lot of space quickly, making them perfect for the beginner or someone starting a new perennial bed with a big area to fill.  They are hardy, drought tolerant and pest resistant.  In addition, each flower shape is different from the others – perovskia has long slender flower spikes, coneflowers have a shuttlecock shape and the daisies sport a round flat disc.

All of these plants enjoy full sun and average soil.  On the tall side, they’re perfect for the back of the flower border, creating a living fence of sorts.  They quickly become large clumps and bloom prodigiously for weeks.  If you choose, you can extend the blooming season by dead-heading spent flowers, thus continuing the show well into fall.  I give a brief description of each plant below:

PEROVSKIA ATRIPLICIFOLIA, commonly known as RUSSIAN SAGE:

russian sage

Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.  Low maintenance and drought tolerant member of the mint family.  Deer, rabbits and insect pests tend to avoid this plant.  Shrub-like in proportion, perovskia can easily reach 3 to 5 feet.  The flowers are a lavender blue held on long panicles that look like exclamations points in the garden.  Blooms July to October.

ECHINACEA PURPUREA, commonly known as PURPLE CONEFLOWER:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

There are many purple coneflowers to choose from but I like the tall variety, “Magnus.” Hardiness Zones 3 to 8.  Low maintenance and drought tolerant member of the aster family.  Deer and pest tolerant.  Can easily reach 3 to 4 feet tall.  The flowers are a rosy purple-pink  with striking center cones of golden orange-brown.  Attracts butterflies and birds love the leftover seed heads.  Blooms late June to October.

LEUCANTHEMUM SUPERBUM, commonly known as SHASTA DAISY:

Brightside Leucanthemum superbum

Again, I like the tall variety, ‘Becky.’  Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.  Low maintenance and drought tolerant.  Formerly included in the genus chrysanthemum, now considered part of the aster family.  Deer and rabbit tolerant.  Can easily reach 3 to 4 feet fall.  The typical daisy blooms have bright white petals with a yellow center.  Attracts butterflies.  Makes a long-lasting cut flower.  Blooms July to September.

Once you have these plants in place as a foundation for your garden, you can easily add other low-maintenance and complementary summer perennials including black-eyed Susan and daylilies; then, all you have to do is sit back and enjoy your beautiful, easy-care garden.  And, that’s what summer gardening should be all about!

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How does your garden grow?

Mary, Mary, quite contrary,
How does your garden grow?
With silver bells and cockle shells
And pretty maids all in a row.

Lately I’ve been engrossed in the Elizabeth of England Chronicles by G. Lawrence.  If you’re a history buff like myself, these novels are a riveting account of the life of Elizabeth the 1st as well as her sister, Mary, both daughters of Henry VIII.  Mary would later become known as “Bloody Mary” after she tortured and killed hundreds of Protestants during her short reign.  The seemingly innocent nursery rhyme above actually refers to her dark side – the “garden” suggests the graves of those she murdered; the “silver bells” and “cockle shells” are code names for instruments of torture and the  “maids” allude to the guillotines used in beheading.  Not a pretty story, by any means.

Ironically, as a child this was one of my favorite nursery rhymes.  When I recited the words I envisioned a beautiful garden of old with exotic flowers and colorful maidens in attendance.  It was the fairy tale catalyst that began my love affair with gardening.

Recently I found myself thinking about this rhyme and wondering what gardens were like in the time of Elizabeth and Mary in the mid to late 1500’s.  Life in those days was dependent upon the success of the harvest of wheat, oats and barley.  Crops were needed for livestock as well.  If it was an unusually wet year, crops would rot in the fields.  If unusually hot and dry, crops would be stunted.  In either event, the coming winter would be one of food shortages, sickness and even starvation.

Herb gardens were crucial in treating any and all maladies.  Poor diet and lack of hygiene could soon turn a minor wound deadly.  Dysentery, cholera, typhoid fever, scurvy, smallpox, measles and even plague were common.  Small churches and large monasteries alike had “infirmary” gardens of healing herbs at their disposal.  Comfrey, known as “boneset,” could calm inflammation and help mend broken bones.  Yarrow had strong antiseptic qualities and was used as a salve.  Lady’s mantle helped with menstrual pain.  Other widely grown medicinal herbs included sage, betony, hyssop, rue and chamomile.  All were used in a variety of treatments and were the only source of “medicine” available.

Flowers were grown not only for their beauty and fragrance, but many were also part of daily meals.  Sweet violets, nasturtium and borage were used in many dishes.  Commonly grown garden flowers included lavender, bluebells, forget-me-not, iris, lilies, foxglove, Canterbury bells, lady’s mantle and hollyhock.  Roses were used medicinally as well as made into jellies and oils.  Rose hips were used for teas and vinegar, and the once familiar Apothecary’s Rose is still widely grown today.

In our modern world where much is provided for us, the once daily struggle for survival is long forgotten.  We need only take a trip to the supermarket to procure all we need to make dinner; we need only visit the nearest CVS for our prescription medicines to make us well.  Our herb, flower and vegetable gardens are largely ornamental rather than necessary for subsistence.

Although we are far removed from life in the 16th century, the old-fashioned plants we continue to grow in our gardens and use in our kitchens connect us to the past.  They are truly living history.  They remind us how close we are to those harsh earlier times and how fragile life yet remains.

medieval garden

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Gardening as Therapy

I have always found working in the garden to have a calming effect.  Plants are for the most part green, a soothing color which represents renewal, rebirth and hope.  Seeing green growth reappear in early spring does indeed fill us with hope of what’s to come and being surrounded by green hues is undeniably soothing.  Shade gardens, where there is little other color, can especially evoke a peaceful feeling.

The use of therapeutic gardens supposedly goes back to the ancient Egyptians and examples of gardens being used for healing can be found throughout history.  In the middle ages gardens provided medicinal herbs used to treat all manner of physical ailments as well as those of the mind.

Today, “horticultural therapy,” helps those people suffering from loss and grief, those limited by physical disabilities and those living in institutions.  A “horticultural therapist” is trained to help people engage in various garden activities as part of their treatment.  Working with plants helps people turn their focus away from negative feelings and towards positive ones that create a sense of well-being.

Gardening with children is a wonderful to way to get them outdoors and teach them about the miracle of life.   Having them plant fat, easily handled seeds such as sunflowers or beans provides almost immediate satisfaction as the seeds quickly sprout and grow.  Even young children can take part in the work of planting and watering, boosting their self-confidence and creating a closeness with the natural world around them.   I have fond memories of working in the garden with my own parents, helping pick tomatoes and green beans.

Evidence suggests that working with plants truly helps us stay healthy, both physically and mentally.  In the garden, we are connected to all that is good in life.  And so it is that I eagerly go outside and embrace my daily dose of gardening therapy.

girl wearing white floral dress beside grass plant at daytime
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An Ode to Mulch

Caring for a garden takes a lot of time, patience and work.  Although we’re all brimming with enthusiasm in spring, the summer gardening chores of weeding and watering get old fast.  When you have to squeeze in gardening between a job, housework and children, it can quickly become a burden.  So what is the number one thing I recommend to make gardening less labor intensive and more enjoyable?  It’s mulch!

Why mulch, you ask?  Well, one application put down in the spring lasts all season.  My personal preference is shredded bark mulch, although there are many different types to choose from.  You can either buy bagged mulch or have a landscaper bring in a truckload, depending upon your budget and the size of your garden.  If you’re young and energetic, you can easily spread it around yourself.  If you’re older than dirt (like my husband and myself), you might opt to have someone spread it for you.  Avoid the dyed stuff and go with the natural product which has a fresh pine scent.  Not only will your whole yard smell terrific, a mulched garden looks elegant and gives your home more curb appeal.

Mulch keeps your garden soil moist, thus limiting the time you have to spend watering.  You should still water any new plantings and during extended dry spells, but mulch holds the moisture much longer than bare soil so you’ll have to water less often.  Even outdoor potted plants benefit from a moisture-retentive layer of mulch.  So rather than holding a hose in the hot sun, you can hold a Margarita while you sit in the shade admiring your beautiful flowers and veggies!

Another benefit is that mulch suppresses weeds.  You will always have some weeds because they’re very good at what they do and Mother Nature programs them to use any available space in your garden to take up residence.  However, you’ll have a lot less weeds germinating in a three-inch layer of mulch and much less to pluck out later.

Lastly, a good organic mulch feeds your soil.  Year after year, layer after layer, mulch breaks down into compost and any compost is good news for your garden.  By keeping your soil healthy, your plants will be nourished the way nature intended.  Mulch also acts as an insulator, keeping the soil cooler in the heat of summer and protecting your perennials from severe cold in the winter.

So, if you want to spend less time working in your garden and more time admiring it, make a yearly investment in mulch and enjoy that Margarita!

green succulent flowers on pot
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DISCLOSURE: From time to time I may use Affiliate Links such as the ones below. I use these only for companies I trust. When you click through on the link and make a purchase from the website, I may make a small commission (at no additional cost to you) which helps me to maintain my website.