Gardening – Page 5 – NANCY WITH THE LAUGHING FACE

October 21, 2018September 24, 2020

Bringing the Greenery Back Inside

Now that temperatures are falling, many of us are in the process of bringing in potted plants from outdoors. Some will do well inside our homes, others not so much, but it’s always fun to try and save them for another year. Surrounding ourselves with green plants helps cheer us through the dark winter months and adds much-needed moisture to the dry air in our homes. Today, I’ll focus on potted tender houseplants as well as potted hardy perennials and how to care for them through the winter months. Here are some of my tips for bringing the greenery back inside.

grouped houseplants — Group Plants Together in your Brightest Areas (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

SEQUESTER AND WASH TENDER PLANTS FIRST

All those houseplants you moved outdoors in June really enjoyed their summer vacation but they may have picked up some unwanted hitchhikers along the way. Once you bring them inside, place the plants in your kitchen sink (or your shower for the big guys) and use a sprayer to wash off all the leaves. Be sure to spray well underneath the leaves where insects and eggs can hide. Water the soil thoroughly, too, and let the pots drain completely. This will help wash away any insects. Also, giving your plants a thorough soaking will help them adjust to their new dry heat environment. If you can, group these plants together for a few days and monitor for any disease or insects BEFORE you let them join in with your other houseplants.

plant group under growlight — Using Plant Light Bulb in Table Lamp (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

CREATE SPACE AND LIGHT FOR TENDER PLANTS

This sounds easier than it actually is because now you have a bunch of plants that need a home for several months and that home has to provide enough light. Unless you are fortunate enough to have a bright, sunny room specifically for your plants, creating such a space can be a challenge. Certain plants like herbs, for example, need as much sunlight as possible to thrive indoors and winter sunlight can be hard to come by. Also, your resident houseplants (those you don’t move outside) have probably already taken the sunniest spots on your windowsills. The good news is that plants are social and love hanging out with their neighbors, so feel free to group them closely together and encourage a plant party wherever you can find the space.

One trick I’ve learned to create more light indoors is to use LED plant light bulbs in my regular house lamps and group as many plants as possible underneath. These light bulbs are inexpensive to buy and use, are longlasting and fit in a standard socket. Your plants will benefit not only from the extra light of the plant bulb but grouping the plants together will help sustain the moist environment they crave in the dry winter heat of our homes and may make the difference between just surviving and thriving.

Creeping Jenny with Obsidian Heuchera and Hosta — Potted Perennials to Bring Inside (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

USE COLD STORAGE FOR POTTED PERENNIALS

During the summer I like to use potted perennials like hostas, heuchera, lamium, ferns, and creeping Jenny to add color to the many shady nooks around my home. After a killing frost, I take those big planters and keep them over the winter in my unheated garage. This accomplishes two important things. I don’t have to worry about my pots getting damaged from the constant freezing and thawing going on outside and the unheated garage provides the perfect place for these plants to achieve the winter dormancy they require while in a protected environment.

The crucial thing to remember here is that your plants will need water to survive in this dry, cold space. Check them every couple of weeks and keep a watering calendar to remind you when it’s time to look in on them. Water them sparingly but regularly, just enough to keep them moist. It’s better to err on the dry side here as too much water will only cause them to rot. In early spring you’ll notice fresh green growth, the sure sign that you have done your job well. Continue to water and move your pots outside again in the spring after danger of frost has passed.

Potted Perennials in Spring — Potted Early Spring Perennials (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

By assessing your plants’ needs and creating mini-environments of adequate light and moisture, your houseplants will be happier and healthier. Your potted perennials, on the other hand, will sleep peacefully through the winter, thinking they’re safely tucked under a blanket of snow. In either case, they should all arrive safely at their spring destination where they can enjoy the great outdoors once again!

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October 18, 2018

Singing the Geranium Blues

If you haven’t yet explored the many types of hardy geraniums, you’re missing some amazing garden plants. By staggering varieties and bloom times, you can enjoy these cheerful blooms from spring to fall.

Close-up of hardy geranium “Rozanne” (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Hardy geraniums, also known as Cranesbill, are generally carefree plants that tolerate some shade and do best in rich humusy soil. The larger ones make excellent middle of the border plants while the smaller varieties look best softening the garden’s edge. Hardy geraniums generally have a mounding habit with round, open flowers that bloom on long wiry stems. I like to think of these plants as “fillers” as they tend to weave and tumble through surrounding plants, filling in any available space and creating that flouncy “cottage garden” look I adore. They are not all blue, of course, but I love shades of blue with all the pinks, purples, reds, yellows and oranges that make up my summer gardens. Below, I will showcase some of the most popular blue varieties.

“Rozanne” still partying on in mid-October (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

There are some plants that deserve a gold star for effort and hardy geranium “Rozanne” is certainly one! It’s mid-October here in Northeast Massachusetts and most of the perennial garden is looking ready for a long winter’s nap, that is, except for Rozanne. After a few nights already in the low 30’s, just missing a freeze, this prolific bloomer is still partying on while everybody else in the garden has already gone to bed. Rozanne begins flowering here in late June and continues on and on until frost.

Geranium “Orion” (Photo courtesy of Annie’s Annuals & Perennials)

Slightly larger in size, another favorite blue geranium of mine is “Orion” which blooms in June well before Rozanne and has a similar purple-blue color and habit. Although Orion generally flowers for only a couple of months (still an amazingly long time by perennial standards), it’s another prodigious bloomer that is simply stunning next to the early yellow daylily “Happy Returns.” The photo above is a good example of how this serene blue complements every surrounding color.

Geranium “Dragon Heart” (Photo courtesy of Geranium Collection)

A few years ago I was fortunate to have some “Dragon Heart” which is a large and vigorous hardy geranium with a deeper purple hue and dark veining. Unfortunately, the plants were in my vegetable garden in full sun and succumbed to one very hot, dry summer. Dragon Heart is another early bloomer that I paired with pink roses and sparkling Allium Christophii (Star of Persia) for a lovely early summer vignette.

“Johnson’s Blue” Geranium (Photo courtesy of Michigan Bulb Company)

One of the most popular blue geraniums dating back to the 1950’s is “Johnson’s Blue.” As shown in the photo, this lower-growing, periwinkle blue geranium makes a lovely groundcover for the garden’s edge and, with enough sun, the foliage turns a striking red in fall.

Here are some hardy geranium facts:

Perfect cottage garden companions
Can be used as groundcovers
Tolerate full sun to partial shade
Prefer humusy, compost rich soil
Range from 12 to 20 inches in height and can spread up to 24 inches
Many boast colorful autumn foliage
Most are reliably heavy bloomers
Grow best in Hardiness Zones 4 – 9

Hardy Geraniums complement their neighbors (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

DISCLOSURE: From time to time I may use Affiliate Links such as the ones below. I use these only for companies I trust. When you click through on the link and make a purchase from the website, I may make a small commission (at no additional cost to you) which helps me to maintain my website.

October 10, 2018

The Botanical Bounty of Maine

Most people don’t think of gardens when you mention Maine, but this rugged northeast State boasts many botanical surprises: https://extension.umaine.edu/cumberland/blog/2017/03/30/12-great-gardens-to-visit-in-maine/

Color and Form — Trees and Tall Grasses frame a Shimmering Sculpture (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

A MOTHER AND DAUGHTER ROAD TRIP

This past Columbus Day weekend I had the pleasure of visiting one of these hidden gems, the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay. Checking out the brilliant fall foliage along the way, my daughter and I took a road trip from Massachusetts, hoping to catch the botanical gardens while still in full autumn glory. We were not disappointed!

succulents and hydrangea — Succulents in Pots with Hydrangea Background (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

A LITTLE HISTORY

According to the CMBG website: “This ambitious project began in 1991 when a group of mid-coast Maine residents founded the grassroots organization. They, and those who worked with them and came after them, shared the belief that northern New England in general, and Maine in particular, were in need of a botanical garden.” “In 1996, after a thorough search for an appropriate site, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens purchased 128 acres of land with 3,600 feet of tidal shore frontage in Boothbay. This was possible due to the unhesitating willingness of founders to use their own homes as collateral.” After 16 years of putting it all together, the gardens officially opened in June of 2007. Today, the site is comprised of 295 acres including tidal shoreland and offering breathtaking views of the coast and woods of Maine.

fairy garden with river — View of the Water from the Fairy House Village (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

GARDENS WITHIN GARDENS

There are many gardens to visit here including the Vayo Meditation Garden, the Lerner Garden of the Five Senses and the Bibby and Harold Alfond Children’s Garden. There is also a Fairy House Village and a Native Butterfly House to delight children of all ages. Stately Maine pines, oaks, and maples provide a dramatic natural backdrop to the many shrubs, perennials, groundcovers, and annuals planted throughout.

verbena bonariensis — Close-up of Verbena Bonariensis (Photo by Julie Wilkins)

TAKING IT ALL IN

Although many summer flowers had already gone to seed, the varied types of seedheads only added more texture and drama to the spectacular floral vignettes. Some late blooming daisies were just beginning to open their buds while many hydrangeas still sported colorful blue and pink mopheads. Asters, sedum and even some shrub roses were still in flower. The popular annual, verbena bonariensis, planted throughout many areas, provided a lovely purple contrast to the many oranges, yellows, and reds of marigolds, nasturtiums, and sunflowers. In celebration of the season, the entire area was also decorated with gourds and pumpkins of all colors, sizes, and shapes.

pumpkin display — One of many Seasonal Displays (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

COME AGAIN

Since we arrived mid-afternoon our time was limited to a couple of hours of walking, but you can easily spend a leisurely day here, taking a lunch break at the Kitchen Garden Cafe which features produce from local growers as well as their own fresh vegetables and herbs. We will definitely be back to enjoy another day and another season in this extraordinary place!

orange flower — Mexican Sunflower and Purple Fountain Grass (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

For more on the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, visit http://www.mainegardens.org/

October 6, 2018

Good Night, Sweet Garden

October is the grand finale of the gardening season and the optimal time to prepare for spring!

Although May is probably the busiest gardening month for me, October brings about its own frenzy of activity. It’s my last chance to get it all done before snow – a month of bringing in tender plants, dividing and moving perennials, planting bulbs, and, finally, putting the garden to bed for winter.

roman-kraft-624392-unsplash — Rose Hips in Fall (Photo by Roman Kraft)

GETTING READY FOR BED

Chatting with fellow gardeners over the years, I’ve discovered that everyone has their own garden bedtime ritual. For me, the schedule goes like this. Mid-September through mid-October is perennial dividing and planting time. Many plants, shrubs, and trees get established faster in the moderate temperatures and frequent rains that fall provides. By the time spring rolls around, they are well on their way and better able to withstand those first hot days and the dry conditions that are sure to follow. Best of all, I’m not out in the hot spring sun digging and watering, the heaviest work having already been done in the cooler days of fall.

snake plant beside taro and palm plant near gray wall — Photo by Madison Inouye on Pexels.com

BRINGING THE GANG INDOORS

For many of us, all those beautiful potted plants that we brought outdoors in spring now have to return to their inside home. Watch the forecast for any impending frost and plan accordingly. It’s always best to segregate your outdoor plants to one area of your home where you can monitor them for any insects before letting them join your other houseplants. Placing them in a cool room initially will help them gradually get used to the warmer and drier air of the house. Any potted perennials can be moved into an unheated garage where you should water them sparingly until putting them out again in the spring. Tender bulbs like gladiolas, tuberous begonias and dahlias should also be lifted and stored out of the cold. For tips on winterizing tender bulbs and plants, click on the link: https://wimastergardener.org/article/storing-tender-bulbs-for-winter/

BULBS AND MORE BULBS

October is also prime bulb planting time. Visualize your garden in early spring. Would you like to see flowers blooming as early as February and continuing on through summer? If so, look into all the types of flowering bulbs that are available and pop a few favorites into the soil now. Come spring, you’ll be glad you did! For more on planting bulbs, see my blog, The Wonderful World of Bulbs

erda-estremera-786462-unsplash — Blooming Bulbs (Photo by Erda Estremera)

GARLIC ANYONE?

Garlic is also a bulb that you can plant in the fall. Best done from mid-October thru early November, garlic bulbs are the last thing I plant. Shredded leaves make a great mulch to layer over the garlic bed for winter protection. In early spring you’ll notice the long green leaves coming right through the mulch and by summer your garlic will be ready for harvest! For detailed instructions on planting garlic, click on the link: https://nevegetable.org/crops/garlic

joey-huang-721921-unsplash — Garlic Cloves Ready to Plant (Photo by Joey Huang)

ONE FINAL CLEANING

Cutting back spent perennial foliage is best left until after a hard frost when pretty much everything has died back to the ground. I like to leave some plants standing for winter interest. The dried flowers of astilbe and sedum look lovely into late fall and add drama when they catch an early snowfall. Seedpods of echinacea and rudbeckia provide food for birds while rose hips and berries add spots of color in an otherwise dreary landscape. How much you clean up is really a personal choice; just remember that all dead plant material and fallen leaves return valuable nutrients back to the soil.

bud close up cold daylight — Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

A LATE SEASON SNACK AND A GARDEN BLANKET

After all the plants and bulbs are in the ground, and any plants I want to save have been brought inside, there are a couple of final steps I take before winter. One thing I do every fall is to apply organic bulb food to my garden beds. This is really the only fertilizer I use and it seems to benefit my perennials as well as the flower bulbs. On top of that, I like to spread some compost around my plants which not only provides nutrients over the coming months but helps to improve the soil. Shredded fall leaves make a great winter mulch for plants that might need some extra protection like hydrangeas or roses, and a good layer of snow provides the perfect winter blanket!

alex-496355-unsplash — Photo by Alex@worthyofelegance

SAYING GOOD NIGHT

I’ve always hated goodbye’s and coming to the end of the gardening season is no exception. The cold and gray winter months ahead can look so bleak but I know there’s life under the surface, waiting for the warmth of spring to begin anew. So rather than say “Goodbye” to all my garden friends, instead I’ll say, “Good night, sweet garden – See you in the spring!”

snow covered ground — Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

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September 18, 2018September 18, 2018

Blessed Beneficial Rain

A good rain is such a blessing! After weeks of hot, dry weather, we finally had some beneficial rain here in northeastern Massachusetts. Heavy tropical downpours moved across our region today, a gift from hurricane Florence as the storm slowly moved east and out to sea. Of course, those living down South who have just experienced 20 inches of rain are not feeling at all blessed right now, but I’m not talking about the kind of rain that leaves flooding and devastation in its wake. Instead, I’m feeling grateful for the kind of rain that sets everything right again, washing away summer’s dust and leaving the outside world clean and refreshed. If you take a close look at your trees, shrubs, and perennials after a soaking rain, you’ll see that they’re greener looking, perky and plumped up with moisture. Some plants, like rhododendrons, even lift up their leaves, as if in thanks!

rhodie close-up — A Rhododendron Giving Thanks for Rain (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

This is the first September since I retired and I’ve taken the opportunity to do some major garden renovation of long-neglected areas. This includes dividing and moving perennials to areas where they can spread out. After digging a new hole for a plant, I add homemade compost and mix it in, ensuring a good start for the roots and improving the existing soil. In addition, and just as important, I plan any large-scale gardening work so that it’s done before a predicted good rainfall. Once the plants are settled into their new homes, I wait for that beneficial rain to work its magic because it’s true that the best water for plants is au natural!

My husband and I are fortunate to live in a small town where everyone has well water. Although our water contains mineral salts, we don’t use a water softener and there’s no chlorine or fluoride which are commonly found in municipal drinking water. Many plants are susceptible to chlorine toxicity which can cause scorched or “burnt” leaves and affect overall health. It can also build up in the soil when gardens are watered regularly with chlorinated water. In addition, according to J.W. Pscheidt, Extension Plant Pathology Specialist, Oregon State University, “Fluoride is an accumulative poison in plant foliage. Accumulation may be gradual over time. Fluoride strongly inhibits photosynthesis and other processes.” Additionally, the heavy use of chemical fertilizers can also burn plants.

Even though our property has well water which is free of added chemicals, I water as little as possible from the outside spigot, preferring to wait for rainfall. Although we don’t have a rain collection barrel, we do put out buckets to collect rain which I then use to water my flower pots and anything newly planted. In addition, I use a layer of mulch every spring to conserve the moisture in my garden beds and any fertilizer I use is organic-based. Using this regimen, I’ve noted an improvement in the overall health of my plants and gardens and I’ve saved myself a lot of outdoor watering!

beautiful bloom blooming blur — Using Collected Rainwater in Outdoor Pots (Photo by Torsten Dettlaff on Pexels.com)

Here are some tips for healthy watering practices:

If you have city water and love to garden, try watering outside only when absolutely necessary to minimize chemical build-up.
Collect rainwater in barrels or buckets and use that on thirsty plants.
If rainwater isn’t available, let tap water sit in your watering can for 24 hours before using to water houseplants or outside pots, thus allowing the chlorine and fluoride to settle out.
Plant outside before a predicted rainfall to help your plants get quickly established.

leaves rain green hosta — Rain on Hosta Leaves (Photo by Hilary Halliwell on Pexels.com)

For more on the many benefits of rainwater, click on this link:

https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/02/13/for-plants-rain-has-benefits-that-tap-water-simply-cant-deliver-9/

September 12, 2018October 8, 2019

The Wonderful World of Bulbs

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO THINK AHEAD AND PLANT SPRING BULBS!

My love affair with flower bulbs began in 1974 after settling into my first home on Cape Ann in Massachusetts. The house was small and looked like it hadn’t been updated since the Great Depression. The yard was the size of a postage stamp. My husband and I didn’t care about that; we were young and hip and brimming over with enthusiasm. Getting in touch with the earth that our little yard provided seemed a natural course of action; so when spring rolled around we found the sunniest spot, turned over the grass, added manure and planted vegetables. By late summer we were knee deep in tomatoes, zucchini and green beans. Our tiny kitchen became a hothouse of frenzied canning and blanching. We could not believe the bounty that this little patch of earth provided and from then on we were hooked. After adding some roses and perennials, we looked forward to the abundant blooms in our future.

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

Still burning with gardening fever that fall, I was easily seduced by a package offer of the earliest spring bulbs from a mail-order catalog. These were bulbs that went beyond the familiar daffodils and tulips I had grown up with. The idea of having blooms earlier than daffodils, well before the perennials came to life or annuals could even be planted, thus extending my gardening season by two or more months, was a prospect I couldn’t turn away from. Captivated by the bulbs’ exotic names of “Puschkinia” and “Chionodoxa,” I promptly mailed in my order. I had no idea of the big impact those little bulbs would have on me. When the tiny floral gems burst through the soil early the following spring, I thought, “Where have you been all my life?” and fell head over heels in love with bulbs. It was just the beginning.

flowers plant spring macro — Early Snowdrops (Galanthus) Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

MOVING FORWARD

Fast forward 20 years later to my 2nd home further inland with two forested acres and an expansive sunny backyard. So much land, so many gardening opportunities! A large vegetable garden was a given and there was plenty of room for perennial beds. Of course, no flower bed would be complete without my beloved bulbs. I couldn’t wait to get started!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — Chionodoxa “Pink Giant” – Photo by Fantasticpixcool.com

An existing foundation garden around the front of the house just begged for the close-up blooms of early bulbs. I planted all the usual suspects and found that crocus and tulips were just a tasty treat for all the critters that also lived in my yard, so I began to look further into the bulb world. Slowly, through trial and error, I settled on the most dependable bulbs for my Zone 6 semi-shaded garden. These included, of course, my first loves of Puschkinia, Chionodoxa and the earliest of all, Galanthus or Snowdrops. Thalia Narcissus thrives in my rich humusy soil along with Hyacinth and the anemone, Grecian Windflower. These are followed by Spanish Bluebells looking like fairy princesses in their violet, bell-shaped blooms. Later bulbs such as the stately Alliums and Ornithogalum bloom well into June and fragrant, exotic Lilies carry on right through the heat of summer.

puple petaled flower — Hyacinth – Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

All of these bulbs thrive in my garden, slowly spreading over time and putting on a spectacular show starting some years as early as February. They take up little space, complement existing garden plants and require minimal care.

1140_puschkinialibanoticapg300 — Puschkinia – Photo courtesy of Plants Galore

SOME TIPS FOR PLANTING BULBS

When planning your flower bed, plant perennials first, then tuck your bulbs in around them. Always follow planting depth and spacing recommendations. After blooming, when the bulb foliage starts to ripen and turn brown, the perennials will take over and hide the dying foliage. Never remove the spent bulb foliage; the bulbs need it to store energy for next season!
Get a good organic bulb food and follow directions on the package. Don’t over fertilize!
Study your garden’s sunlight and soil conditions and plant accordingly. Take the time to read about your favorite bulb’s preferences. Does it like shade, sun, moist or dry soil?

BE FEARLESS

There’s a world of bulbs that bloom from spring to autumn. Chat with gardeners in your neighborhood; search the internet, catalogs and gardening publications. Take a chance and experiment with something new and unusual. You may find that you fall in love with bulbs, too!

Muscari – Grape Hyacinth – Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

September 7, 2018

Growing It Forward

OLD-FASHIONED PLANT VARIETIES CONTINUE TO GROW ON!

Friends and neighbors have shared many wonderful plants with me over the years but by far the most beloved of all my plants are those that come from my childhood home on the coast of Massachusetts.

I was fortunate to be born to parents who loved to garden and who passed that passion on to me. Every summer we had a small vegetable garden with tomatoes and green beans, and there were always flowers blooming in our large perennial garden. I vividly remember the blue and white iris, lupine and tawny daylilies, many of which had already been growing for years. With so many sweet memories attached to them, divisions of these plants just had to come with me when I moved to my own home.

ONE REMARKABLE HOSTA

At some point in the 50’s or 60’s my father planted several large hostas in the front of our house near the street. Placed where they received only hot afternoon sun, they were not ideally situated. However, in spite of the tough growing conditions and without any special care, these remarkable plants produced a spectacular flower show every August and September.

hosta lancifolia — Old-fashioned Hosta Lancifolia in my September garden (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

What type of hosta would have such an iron constitution and such abundant blooms? After doing some research, I believe this plant is the old-fashioned variety, hosta lancifolia. So named because of the lance-shaped leaves, hosta lancifolia comes from Asia and is supposedly one of the earliest varieties to be planted in this country. Although I have other “modern” hostas, this classic beauty from home remains my favorite.

close up hosta lancifolia — Close-up of Hosta Lancifolia (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

MEMORABLE ADDITIONS

In addition to the hosta, I also saved some of the Siberian iris, daylilies and hyacinth bulbs from my mother’s perennial garden. These hardy plants have since been spread all over my property and divisions have been passed on to others. By adding white lilacs and rhododendrons which were also a part of my parents’ garden, I’ve managed to create around my home a constant and comforting reminder of my family and childhood. Plant gifts from neighbors and friends have only added to my collection of sweet memories that return for me year after year, the cherished rewards of “growing it forward.”

White hyacinth flowers over sky. — Background image created by Kotkoa – Freepik.com

September 6, 2018

Garden Thugs or Helpful Heroes?

The Fine Line Between Invasive and Enthusiastic

I grow several plants in my zone 6 garden that are considered “invasive” or plants that tend to spread rampantly. If you look on your State’s website, you will find a list of invasive trees and plants that should never be planted in your area. Purple Loosestrife, for example, is an aggressive grower in New England that is taking over marshes and ponds, choking out wildlife habitat. I’m not talking about the plants that have been blacklisted but instead the ones you can purchase from your local garden center that are best described as “enthusiastic” growers. Over the years I’ve discovered there’s a fine line between plants that are considered garden thugs and those that are helpful heroes. It’s all in how you use them.

Using Groundcovers

Many groundcovers are aggressive spreaders. As the name implies, these are generally plants that will cover a lot of ground and do it quickly! Groundcovers can be extremely valuable in covering unsightly areas of our yards where other plants won’t grow. For this reason landscapers love them but new gardeners may hesitate to bring these rowdy boys home. The trick with using assertive spreaders is to keep them from getting out-of-bounds.

A case in point is the innocent looking “Creeping Jenny” with its diminutive chartreuse leaves. Planted in rich garden soil, this bright gem spreads like a bad case of poison ivy and can easily take over your flower bed. I know this from personal experience! But I love the bright green color and delicate appearance of this plant, so I use it where it can be left to its own devices – in semi-shaded bare spots around the yard or combined with other plants in flower pots where its rampant growth is confined. In the right spot “Jenny” may even reward you with bright yellow summer flowers.

Another popular groundcover is Ajuga or Bugleweed. The common Ajuga reptans brightens my yard with beautiful blue or white flower spikes in May. It tends to spread into the lawn but, dug up and replanted in early spring, you can easily direct this plant where you want it to grow. Ajuga appreciates semi-shade but will adapt to full sun given adequate moisture. Two varieties that I love are “Black Scallop” and “Chocolate Chip” whose striking foliage looks good all season. (See photos below) Deep blue flower spikes are a bonus in the spring. Although Ajuga spreads quickly, it plays well with others in my garden beds and is easily divided and moved to other areas.

A native groundcover that I’ve used extensively in my yard is Vinca minor, also known as “Periwinkle” or “Creeping Myrtle.” In April, the glossy dark green foliage is covered with light blue flowers that positively sparkle in the sun. Vinca thrives along the bright edges of the woods and quickly covers large areas. On the aggressive side with its long runners attaching to any bare soil, this groundcover is best left to its own space where it will fill in to form a lush green carpet. One stunning early spring combination is the twinkling blue flowers of Vinca planted at the feet of bright yellow Forsythia!

Giving the Big Boys Room

Although we don’t usually think of our tall perennials as invasive, there are some big boys that tend to spread aggressively and quickly. Large clumps of sun-loving Shasta daisies, tall daylilies, phlox and perovskia can become almost shrub-like in size, easily overcoming a small garden. Tall grasses also make a big statement and need lots of space to spread. If you love big plants, give them plenty of room at the back of the border where they won’t dwarf your smaller perennials OR group them in a bed by themselves.

Purple Fountain Grass easily dwarfs its neighbors (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

In the semi-shade garden, Grape Leaf Anemone is another back-of-the-border plant that can quickly grow to three feet tall and wide, and the long flower stalks may need support. Valuable as a prodigious late summer to early fall bloomer, the pale pink to mauve blooms blend beautifully with late-blooming hostas and Rudbeckia. Because of its robust constitution, it may need to be thinned out in early spring to keep it from taking over but it’s worth the extra effort just to enjoy the spectacular late season show!

Go Ahead and Grow It Anyway

The only way we learn about the nature of plants is to grow them ourselves. Remember that whatever a plant’s reputation, your experience with it will be unique to your climate and growing conditions. Don’t be afraid to try a plant with an eager temperament; just plant with restraint if using in established flower beds and monitor its habit over the growing season. Alternatively, if you want to cover a shabby area and turn it into something you’re proud of, using these vigorous spreaders can give you almost instant gratification. So, go ahead and take a few of these plants home for a test drive. Only then will you discover who are the garden thugs and who are the helpful heroes in your garden!

August 31, 2018

Autumn “Power” Perennials

Asters, Rudbeckia and Sedum create a long-lasting autumn flower show!

Chrysanthemums are undoubtedly the flowers most people think of when Labor Day weekend rolls around. They come in a variety of colors and sizes and you can purchase early, mid and late season bloomers to keep the show going for weeks. Left in their pots they are easily moved around to add late season color where needed; and when combined with pumpkins, cornstalks and gourds, they make splendid fall arrangements for our front entryways. Although I love chrysanthemums, they have two major drawbacks – they need to be watered religiously to keep them from drooping and, although called “hardy,” they are not reliably perennial here in New England. So what autumn bloomers meet my criteria for “power” perennials or plants that are drought tolerant, care-free, and perform over a long period of time?

At the top of my list is Sedum, “Autumn Joy,” one of those rare perennial plants that looks beautiful spring, summer and fall. Because sedums are succulents – plants whose leaves hold water – they require no special treatment other than a sunny site in your garden. What makes “Autumn Joy” so remarkable is its chameleon personality during the growing season. It starts out in early spring with rosettes of leaves clustered close to the ground. Slowly, over the spring and summer, the broccoli-like flower stalks become the focus, changing color from the palest green to soft pink to a deep russet by late fall. At 12 to 24 inches tall, “Autumn Joy” is the perfect middle-of-the-border plant.

Sedum in summer — Sedum “Autumn Joy” in my late August garden (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Taking up the back of the border are the tall asters which can easily reach three feet tall. I have two New England asters that have staggered bloom times – one a deep purple that blooms in September and the other a softer purple-pink that blooms into October. Aster frikartii “Monch” is one of the earliest to bloom in a pleasing periwinkle blue that blends well with its neighbors. By adding different varieties of asters, you can extend the flowering season until frost. Taller asters look amazing planted behind sedum which incidentally helps to keep the long stems from falling over – no staking needed! Though they can be susceptible to downy mildew, I haven’t found that to be a problem, instead finding them quite vigorous and trouble-free. They can even take a bit of shade but will bloom more abundantly in the sunny border.

Close-up of Aster — Aster frikartii “Monch” (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

The classic Black-Eyed Susan known as “Goldsturm” rounds out my trio of autumn “power” perennials. Blooming starts here in July and continues through September if plants are deadheaded. The golden yellow blooms light up the garden like nothing else and last over such a long period of time that they bridge the summer garden into fall. They are stunning planted en masse and combine well with other late summer and fall bloomers. “Goldsturm” prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.

rudbeckia, aster and sedum — Aster “Monch,” Rudbeckia “Goldsturm” and Sedum “Autumn Joy” (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

There are many varieties of these plants available, just find ones that will grow in your hardiness zone and light conditions since we all lose some garden sunlight in the fall. Remember also to group your autumn plants together for best effect and a dazzling grand finale!

August 23, 2018August 24, 2018

Embracing Changes in Garden Light

Life-giving sunlight changes over time and affects how our gardens grow.

If there’s one thing we can count on in life, it’s change. We live in a constantly changing world of seasons – spring, summer, autumn, winter – and each season has its own light.

As September approaches, the available sunlight in my foundation garden dramatically diminishes. The once partially shaded garden on one side now enjoys nearly full shade, while the sunny side of the garden receives a fraction of the sunlight that radiated down in May, June and July. The vegetable garden, sited for maximum sun exposure, manages to keep producing vegetables into fall.

In the spring, there’s an abundance of light everywhere as the days grow longer. Early bulbs quickly bloom and then fade, making way for spring perennials such as hardy geranium, Lamb’s Ears, allium, Lady’s Mantle and peonies. Later, sun-loving daylilies, “Moonbeam” coreopsis, “Rozanne” geranium and coneflowers take over the show, happily blooming through the long days of summer.

Early Morning Sun in June (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen) — Early Morning Sunlight in June (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Of all the gardening seasons, it’s the fall that gives us the most challenges in terms of light. When planting fall blooming perennials it’s important to make sure that any sun lovers go into your sunniest spots. Otherwise you’ll be left with plants that live but don’t thrive, and after doing all the hard work of planting, you want the most blooms for your efforts. On the other hand, if you’re planting spring or summer perennials in the fall, you’ll have a lot more leeway as to where to place them, knowing that the spring and summer months provide the most abundant sunlight over a wider area.

Trees also change the light that reaches our gardens. A partially sunny area five years ago becomes more shaded over time as the trees in our yards grow ever larger, blocking valuable sunlight. An addition to the house or a new outbuilding can also affect the light in nearby gardens. When the light changes around our gardens, we have to change our gardens to accommodate the new growing conditions; otherwise, we are left with gardens that survive but don’t thrive!

The small garden below is a work in progress as the plants are still filling in. Many years ago I had sun-loving roses planted here, but over time a large evergreen to the left has almost completely shaded the area. Now, with only morning sun, this space is perfect for the ferns, hostas, brunnera and ajuga that appreciate the shady site.

Shade Garden in August (Photo by Nancy Marie Allen)

Taking yearly photos of your garden is a great way to see how light changes over time. By planning ahead, and growing plants in places that have the best light conditions for them, we can make the difference between a garden that just hums along and one that sings out loud!